24/12/10

Defying product obsolescence: What you can do with a 60-year-old machine. An interview with Collin Antos, part 1

Posted on Thứ Sáu, tháng 12 24, 2010 by Pro-ID group

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Aside from a few power tools, I don't own anything with moving parts that's more than five years old. Stuff breaks and becomes obsolete. So the thought of buying a sturdy machine that was built sixty years ago and will easily serve me through the next twenty, is cheaper than a brand-new machine that does the same thing, and requires virtually no maintenance, has a powerful allure. Which is why I bought an old Singer sewing machine from Collin Antos.

Antos, a 31-year-old engineer, uses the Singer 15-91 model in his spare time to make everything from curtains to carry-on luggage to messenger bags. He is an unabashed Singer 15-91 geek and lovingly restores them in his spare time.

Core77 recently interviewed Antos on what makes these machines special and different in a crowded marketplace, why they have survived obsolescence and may even be superior to modern machines, what you can make with them, and how he fixes them up. In analyzing his answers, we see this conversation is actually about a lot more than a simple sewing machine, and in fact helps illuminate the way we think about products we own and what we really want from them. His answers are long, in a good way, so it'll be presented in two parts. We think you'll find it interesting.

Core77: Can you tell us about your dual engineering/industrial design educational background?
Collin Antos: When I was in high school I really wanted to design and make shoes. I started off just studying Bio-Mechanical Engineering at Syracuse University, but I realized that I was missing two other parts that encompassed manufacturing, and those were Textile Science and Industrial Design. I took as many classes as I could in both and met some amazing people who taught me so much about how different views come together during production.

Since graduating I have always worked in a manufacturing plant as an engineer. Having an industrial design background has been such an advantage for me professionally, because normally engineers and artists are standing on opposite sides of the room. Having an understanding of the artist's point of view as well as the manufacturing product lifecycle, including machine limitations, has made working together so much easier.

How did you get into sewing and repairing sewing machines?
I learned to sew in a 7th grade Home Economics class. I love to build things, very different things, it doesn't matter what it is. For example I love woodworking and have slowly been building up a nice little shop in the garage. Sewing has always sort of been simmering in the background and usually bubbles to the surface for me when I see something in a catalogue that I like.

One of the most important things for me is owning only Made in America items. Sadly it's EXTREMELY hard to do. Yes, I own a cell phone, Macbook and iPod and none are made here (although the software was) and they were all designed here. This is why sewing comes to the surface so often; if I can't find it Made in the USA I try to make it myself....

... Sometimes it takes me a few tries and a lot of times the end result looks homemade, but for me, as long as I can say that I stay true to my beliefs then I am happy with a homemade-looking hat.

For a long time I was using my grandmothers Kenmore sewing machine from the '70s and it was not made to be used to do projects of the 'see if it's possible' variety. Lately I have been really into sewing duffelbags and messenger bags out of duck cloth, and the thick materials just were too much for it.

I started doing research on the internet about used (can't buy a new one because it wouldn't be Made in the USA) sewing machines and I came across a cult following for the 15-91. Singer made loads of different model machines in the USA and I settled on the 15-91 based on what I had read. As it turned out the only ones I was willing to afford did not run, so when it first arrived, I cleaned it and rewired and got it running and actually had done my first refurbishment without even knowing if the thing was worth it or not.

When I finally finished and plugged it in, not only did it turn right on but it had a perfect stitch. I tried it on a dufflebag that I had set aside out of frustration with the Kenmore--and it blew me away. For me the 15-91 opened up a whole new world of possibilities. There was no longer a machine-imposed limit to my projects. For years I had been struggling, and then just-like-that everything just worked. Have you ever wanted to do something and then just by chance you find a tool that lets you do exactly what you needed? For me that's what the 15-91 did. In my opinion it's the greatest model of sewing machine ever made and that's really how I got into refurbishing them. Once I said: 'Everyone who sews needs one of these.' I knew that not only does everyone need one, but everyone will want one!

What kinds of things are you capable of sewing? Can you give us an idea of some of the practical things people can make using the Singer 15-91?
The great thing about the 15-91 is that it sews everything, and I mean everything. I have sewn one layer of sheer rayon to make curtains and I've sewn eight layers of duck cloth making carry-on luggage.

The thing that sets this machine apart is the power and versatility that it has. Not just the power to sew through thick canvas but also the versatility to switch to making boxer shorts.

I am an amateur when it comes to sewing and some of the common issues that were obstacles for me, like irregular stitch length, were eliminated because of the design of this machine. Anyone who has tried to casually sew on a modern home machine knows that if you aren't an expert you tend to get variations in your stitch length. This is because an inexperienced user will push or pull the material as it is worked through the machine. The 15-91 has so much strength between the feed dogs and the presser foot that it won't let you force the material through, it just takes it as it wants it. This has actually helped make me a much better seamster, because its like having a constant instructor reminding me to relax and let the machine pull it at its own pace.

My stitches also come out straighter because, on other machines as you force the fabric through it tends to walk or slide to one side or the other making, your straight-line stitch look like a wave that wanders back and forth as you try to bring it back into line.

Even though this is a powerful machine and is probably more capable than any home hobbyist really needs, because of its reasonable pricing even on fully refurbished machines I would recommend it to anyone who is thinking of buying even their first sewing machine. The 15-91 is the kind of machine that corrects the beginner and encourages the expert.


Do you repair a range of sewing machines? If so, can you tell us some of the different characteristics?
I do not repair any other sewing machines other than the 15-91. It sounds strange but since it's a hobby and I feel so strongly about the capabilities of this one particular model, that I would feel like I was doing people a disservice, if I refurbished anything other than the model I would use myself.

Tell us about the Singer 15-91's specific design.
My favorite thing about the 15-91 is the gearing. Every year I would take my Kenmore in for its annual 'tune up.' This would readjust the timing and oil it up and check the belts etc. Even though I spend about 10-15 hours cleaning, rewiring and modernizing the 15-91 I have NEVER had to adjust the timing of any of the gears. It's amazing.

I've gotten machines that have been flat-out abused. Ones that I've put my hand on my head and thought 'no way will it run' and sure enough no matter the condition, no matter the past treatment they put out the most beautiful stitch you could ever ask for. That also means if you buy a refurbished machine you will only need to oil it and it will keep running as perfectly in 20 years as it does the day you buy it.

Also this machine has a direct drive set up, which means there are no belts in this machine at all. It uses just gears to gears. This provides the power. While a belt can slip the gears can not.

Why are you attracted to this particular machine?
There are so many things that make this machine my perfect choice. The oil, light bulb, bobbin tire and bobbins (which are all a normal user would ever need to replace) are commonly available in chain stores. Its easy to understand and easy to learn. The 15-91 has all of the muscle you could ever need, yet can switch to sewing silk without a hiccup. It compensates for my bad habit of forcing the fabric through and gives me a great stitch every time. Plus they are super easy to fix. The timing never needs adjusting. All of that means I can just sit down and sew without having to worry about anything.

What's the hardest thing you've ever made with a sewing machine? And the easiest?
The hardest thing I've ever made are by far boxer shorts. They are a pain in the butt. The easiest thing I've ever made is a winter hat and scarf. If you are looking for a fun project to get familiar with sewing, try a hat and scarf made out of fleece. The ends won't fray and the material cuts really nicely. Plus everyone needs a winter hat.

Is a Singer 15-91 a good machine for beginners? Also, what does it have to offer to people with a lot of sewing experience?
Absolutely. The price of a fully refurbished 15-91 is comparable to an entry level modern machine, but you get so much more quality. The 15-91 has so many things that should attract beginner level sewers as well as experienced ones:

1. The versatility to sew on any material and any thickness.

2. The price is comparable to beginner level modern machines

3. It compensates for your inexperience by overpowering your tendency to force the material through, creating irregular and wandering stitches.

4. The machine only goes in forward and reverse and makes a variable length straight stitch. You will become comfortable using this machine after only a few hours. This will make you feel more at ease and more willing to come back to it to try more projects.

5. Dependability. If you know you can't hurt it, you will take more chances and have more fun.

6. You are more likely to become an expert if you have a machine that you want to sew on, and if you have been able to try a wide variety of projects without wondering if the machine can do it or worrying about complicated settings.

7. An expert seamstress will love this machine because it has a natural feel. If you already know how to sew and you have made many things before, you will want a machine that is easy to learn, has the power to do what you ask it when you ask it, and feels like an extension of your body.

Core77

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